Looking at the DIY options, U-Pol Raptor (OK, so the category has it’s issues with straight names, as shown by names like Lizard Skin and Dead Liner.) got the draw. 

Based on a couple of installs documented in some of the builders’ forums this stuff out of the UK has:

• Reasonable cost,
• Easy (enough) to apply,
• Extreme durability, and
• Great appearance

U-Pol Raptor is available as a tintable base to make it any color, but basic black is the color of choice for the WTF-J.  Surprisingly, the material is packaged in the UK and then shipped here for distribution.  The other surprise is that some of their kits include the Schutz type spray gun, but others don’t.  Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to figure out the difference in the part numbers.  (Update: Even buying the gun separately on E-Bay, the deal from R.W. Mallon on material was still the lowest cost option.) 

Normally, one kit (4*1L) would be enough to line a Jeep tub, but as the WTF-J has the longer CJ-8 wheelbase, the decision was to go with two kits and any extra will line the rear wheel wells and rocker guards.

So, time to clean out the tub.  In this pic, the cage and bed rails are out along with the tailgate, ammo can console,  and rear body mount.

This was a great opportunity to “fix” the rivets on the tailgate before covering them with the bed liner compound. The issue is that the tailgate design requires the back side of the pop rivet to be exposed along the hinge (Below).

The fix is to use a hammer and dolly to peen the backside of the rivet.

Dramatically cleans up the appearance.

Other (planned) quick fixes included:

• Shorten the “keeper” on the spare tire capture nut
• Relocate the  seat belt anchors
• Remove the bikini Velcro from the top of the roll bar
• Mod the tube doors to keep the door straps from falling off
• Painting bolts and a variety of small parts
• Relocate center exhaust hanger
• May have to  fix some wiring and wire management issues under the dash.

Once the seats and trans cover come out it will be time for rough sanding, power washing, and primer.

More to come…

Taped & Masked

Primed

First Coat

2nd Coat

Here are the quick fix items…

Clean up some under dash wiring and fab a relay block (Time to activate the cruise control that exists within the Drive by Wire ECM)

Rubberized coating on the safety harness anchors (Quiet down the rattling), same deal for the base of the Hi Lift.

The open air WTF-J is tough on black oxide finished hardware.  Made up a painting jig out of a scrap 2×4 and problem solved.  Added a “collar” to the restraining strap post on the tube door

Fabbed a bezel for the Atlas T/C shifter boot.  Bolt heads easily cut through rubber material with or without washers.

And now all the kings horses and all the king’s men will spend the weekend putting the WTF-J back together again.

During the construction phase, the  Optima was installed and kept on a trickle charge while powering the radio and the occasional test start-up.  One day I hit the starter and had the unmistakable sound of a dead battery.  Evidently failing to reconnect the charger while leaving something on overnight is a bad thing.  No big deal, as the charger would bring it back to life.  Wrong! 

Tried to recharge it 2-3 times and the BatteryMinder would flip into protection mode after about 20-30 min.  Off the charger, the battery would quickly fall back to ~5v.  The high priced Optima was dead!

Having read about Optimas pre-mature failures I was concerned that I had a real expensive paperweight.  The good news is that the Internet is a wonderful place and found that if you discharge an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery too far, “intelligent” chargers will not be able to deal with them, but if you add a regular battery in parallel, it will trick the charger into doing its job. 

Sure enough, the addition of the battery from the pickup worked and the Optima was back in business.  (You wonder how many AGM batteries have been scrapped because the owner didn’t find the parallel battery ploy?)

BTW, the BatteryMinder in the picture is probably the ideal charger for the WTF-J.  It will act as a trickle charger to keep the battery topped off all winter, has a setting to refresh (desulfate) AGM batteries, and provides a quick(er) boost charge when needed.  The high tech charger developed a problem after ~1yr of use in the garage.  When I made a warranty inquiry, the company’s customer service operation had me send the defective unit and they returned a new charger .  No hassles whatsoever.  

Life is good when you have power!

…except at highway speeds (>50 MPH) at which point the top oscillates at random rates and acts like a spastic sub-woofer.   The guess is that the rise between the top of the windshield and the rollbar and the concave shape of the top act like a foil to create a low pressure area that sucks up the top at speed.  Once in the "UP" position, concave becomes convex, the top loses lift and is blown down forcibly by the rushing air. 

At speed, the noise of the top rendered radio useless, but the good news based on NHTSA logic is that it also obviated cell phone usage.  Despite the safety benefit, the noise precipitated a quest to fix it.

1. Velcro
   
   Plan “A” was to add industrial strength Velcro to the top of the B-Pillar roll-bar.  The idea was to have tension across the entire width of the top and thus stop-the-flop.  No joy!
   
   
2. Middle Belt
   
   Added 6 ballistic cloth "belt loops" down the center and then ran a 1" belting strip that could be tightened front-to-back between a footman loop on the windshield frame and the rollbar.  Much better, but to the question; are we there yet?  Nope!
    
    
3. Batten
    
   Had a spare piece of 1/4”
   rod and wondered what would happen if it were threaded through the loops to act as a stiffener, or in sailing terms, a batten.  Voila, the noise vanished.  (OK, it didn’t go away entirely, but it was w-a-a-y better.)  The batten worked OK when simply passed through the "belt loops," but the addition of a fixed bracket to the windshield frame and threading the batten to screw into it made it even better.  Success!

   
   

The hypothesis is that the batten both stiffens the top and, by adding a rib, eliminates the concave curve causing lift and the convex bubble that made the thump.  I also think that the batten effectively splits the top into two sections that each have less force and may be within the range of all three countermeasures and act (oscillate) somewhat independently and thus often cancel each other out.

Whatever the reason, it works!

I flipped a note to Bestop, because it would be easy and cheap to fold/sew a batten pocket into the top during construction and provide a low cost product update/upgrade.

ID	Description
1.	Instrument Panel – Ver 2.0 Fix turn signal LEDs hidden by radio faceplate when it tilts during operation Fix monolithic faceplate that requires the whole dash to gain access to any of the connectors Fix defective Cruise Control switch logic Swap Speedo / Tach positions (Done) Validate SES indicator operation Add filter module for RFID key system (Done) Gang “ad hoc” relays on left side (Done) Clean-up power distribution and segment connections Powder Coat Dash Panel Not really the IP, but add cup holders to console (Done)
2.	Convert former A/C Compressor to OBA Turns out that when the suspension is really workin’ it has a prodigious appetite for air.  The Viair is rated for a 100% duty cycle and can keep up without any problems, but it’s noisy.  Yeah, yeah, I know the whole damn thing is noisy, but the electric compressor is bad noise.
3.	Muffler – Ver 2.0 : Speaking of noise, find a quieter muffler to fit in the same envelope as the current Magnaflow  (Done)
4.	Engineer New (longer) Pitman Arm Decrease Steering Radius Increase Steering Effort It will be a challenge to work out the interference issues
5.	Paint Center “Console” (Ammo Cans)  Body Misc. Chassis Components
6.	Spray-On Bed Liner for Tub Interior ($???) (Done)
7.	ScanGauge II  (Done) Reads the ECM to provide any four functions from list including: Maximum Speed Average Speed Maximum Coolant Temperature Maximum RPM Driving Time Driving Distance Fuel Used Trip Fuel Economy Distance to Empty Time to Empty Fuel to Empty Fuel Economy Fuel Rate Battery Voltage Coolant Temperature Intake Air Temperature Transmission Temp Engine Speed (RPM) Vehicle speed (MPH) Manifold Pressure Engine Load Throttle Position Ignition Timing Open/Closed Loop Can also serve as a scan tool to: Read/Clear Trouble Codes Reads conditions that set the Trouble Code Turn off the "Check Engine" light Tell you when vehicle is "Ready" to pass OBDII testing Make and store up to 10 rewritable special codes to send to the vehicle computer
8.	Rocker Guards with Step (Done)
9.	Finalize rear speaker installation (Done)
10.	Clean-up connections at Fuel Tank (Done)
11.	Install IKEA interior LEDs (Done)
12.	Figure out why the driving lights don’t work They did before I installed the brake lines. Doh!
13.	Re-plumb vacuum line for heater/thermostat
14.	Front Inner Fenders (Half Done – ECM/Driver’s side complete)
15.	Front half of roll cage Cannot start until after Ver 2.0 Dash

The workaround is separate reflectors or reflector tape, but that didn’t work for me. 

One day while surfing the Web, I came across a guy selling flanges that incorporated the reflectors, and I was hooked.  A couple of emails and they were on the way.

It was a pretty easy switch.  (When you’re building a Jeep, you gotta love standards!)

So now I’m (kinda) legal.   (Psst.  Look at the white box on the right next to the rear tire; that’s the muffler, so we’re one step closer to sounding legal.)

OK, so they are not plain old seatbelts, the WTF-J has the Impact Racing’s 5-point harness including a lost motion cam-lock latching system. 

Impact Racing ("IR") is the new company Bill Simpson founded after leaving Simpson Race Products following NASCAR’s initial assertion that a faulty safety harness was a major contributor to Dale Earnhardt’s death at the 2000 Daytona 500.  (NASCAR amended their findings a year later and noted Earnhardt’s team did not follow Simpson’s recommended installation procedures.  Simpson, a long-time pioneer in advancing the state-of-the-art in automotive safety products, took NASCAR’s early findings very personally.)  It was clear to me that Simpson was attempting to make a statement with IR.

The 3" belts have a center cam-lock that is pretty slick.  The individual belts are plugged in to a center locking point and are released with a turn.   The lock is called a lost motion mechanism as it requires 30° of motion before releasing the belts.  The intent is to prevent inadvertent releases due to the steering wheel or some other motion brushing up against the lock release.

The harnesses also have pads in the shoulder sections for no other reason than they are a lot more comfortable!

In the picture above, if you look at the side of the driver’s seat, you can see how the belts pass through the (shiny) black collars in the seat to the floor mounts.  The collars, along with the neoprene seat fabric are designed to keep the seat from loading up with water in a rainstorm and giving passengers an extended period of wet butt.  Below, you can see how the belt clips into the 7/16" eyelet, what you don’t see is the stud and the 3" structural washer that sits on the other side of the mount.

While not exactly an airbag, I feel better already.  The quality of the materials and workmanship is confidence inspiring.   Another neat feature is that the belts are SFI Certified and have a two year life span.  (Belts older than 2-yrs are not permitted by most racing sanctioning bodies.)   Impact, like most racing equipment manufacturers has a very low cost service to re-web their harness systems with new belts. (Think new belts for 25-30% the cost.)  For a vehicle that is constantly exposed to the elements, this is a very good thing.

Sooooooo, that part is done, now let’s hope I never need them!

The WTF-J was never intended to have a lid.  (Think motorcycle with training wheels.)  No hard-top, no soft-top, only a "bikini" stretched between the top of the windshield and the (eventual) roll-bar.  Problem being that as the WTF-J is completely open, it makes it tough to park outside overnight without uninvited guests (Both the two and four legged kinds.)  The solution; a car cover. 

The problem is that there are more different types of car covers than you might imagine; different materials, different construction (One, two, three, and even four layers), indoor only, extreme sun, etc., etc.   It’s crazy.

With lots of searching I found Covercraft.  Reading through the "about us," it turns out that they were the primary supplier to MG Mitten and are now a big time player.  (You have to be old enough and a car junkie long enough to have read old Road & Track issues and knew Sports Car Graphic before they were absorbed by Car & Driver  to understand the affinity to MG Mitten.)  Covercraft also had a nifty table that explained the differences in the various materials.   The answer for the WTF-J was their Weathershield cover:

• Best rain & dust protection
• Smallest storage space required
  • Important when you take it on a road trip, as I learned when foolig around with Cobras and learned that a cover could basically consume that car’s available trunk space.
• Comes in bright yellow!
• Carried by J.C. Whitney
  • Frequently offer 20% off coupons and typically start out with the lowest price of the online parts guys

When the cover arrived, I thought the quality of the fabrication was first rate, but the fabric was a bit flimsy; however once it was on the WTF-J and the rain started, I got it.  The fabric is a real slick and strong (very tightly woven) nylon that actually holds water.  Under the cover, the interior was dry.  The only trick in installing the cover was cutting the hole and adding the grommet for the radio antenna.

The downside to the cover is that it is terrible for hiding the WTF-J, as even fully covered, it is clearly visible.   The good news is that the cover also hides the (empty) license plate holder, so it’s not totally obvious that I am in violation of our homeowners’ association covenants against parking unlicensed vehicles in the driveway.  

On balance, this is a very good thing!

Meet Vicki the UPS driver who delivered  most of the WTF-J out of the brown truck you see here.  (Seriously!)  Personally,  I think Vicki is actually a secret weapon in the mass destruction of traditional retailing.  Considering the stuff she brings us in addition to most of a car, you easily come to the realization that it’s simply more cost and time effective to shop on the Web and let Vicki bring it a couple of days later.  

My favorite UPS story happened one day when we were out at the Vet’s with one of our furry feral friends.   We saw Vicki making a delivery and mentioned that we had a couple of items to ship.  (Since we get an almost daily Amazon fix, I don’t bother to pay for a scheduled pickup when I do the on-line shipping process.  We also have an "electric pink" index card we put in the window and Vicki knows that’s the signal for a package pickup.)  Well, 4p came and went and we figured that the package would have to wait ’til the next day and then the doorbell rings; turns out that our favorite UPS person had indeed forgotten about the pickup, but turned around and came back to get it.

With service like that and gas at over $3/gal, who needs the Mall?  Oh yeah, the box on the trailer?  It holds the seat belts and safety harnesses from Impact Racing, so there may be second thoughts  about passing on the opportunity to buy a temporary tag.

PS…

FedEx Ground is also great.  The one area they beat UPS is in Saturday deliveries.  Just a guess, but I’ll bet it’s because their delivery process is outsourced to independent contractors ("Owner Operators") who are paid by the package.  If package tracking says "Monday" and it’s FedEx Ground, I have been "trained" to look for it on Saturday.  (Don’t worry Vicki, you still bring over 80% of what gets delivered here!)  

I came across Schram’s Auto Parts during the eBay searches and they had motors with less than 100mi on them, often times waaaay less. (~7-10mi)   Turns out that they have a deal with GM to purchase transportation wrecks and other scrap cars for resale as parts.  I found an ’06 Escalade LQ9 with a 4L65e transmission and TC with 500mi with an opening bid of $4300 delivered to my door.

The good news about these motors is that they include all of the front accessories, wiring harnesses, PCMs, starter, CATs, and misc parts that can easily add $1-2K to a build.  I was ready to go $6K for the LS2, but if I could get this one cheap enough, then it was going to be a WTF moment.  Sold!

The motor showed up on a skid and was in perfect condition.  (As the Powertrain was the first major assembly, it’s arrival could be thought of as figuratively crossing the Rubicon!) Schram’s guys had carefully dismantled the donor so I didn’t have any cut wires or bent parts.  I was pleasantly surprised.  The big surprise came ~3months later when I started to get into the electricals and discovered that I was missing the Throttle Actuator Control ("TAC") module and its harnesses for the Electronic Throttle Control ("ETC").  All it took was one e-mail and one phone call to Schram and the TAC module, harnesses, and a new pedal assembly were on there way; Schram didn’t even charge me for the shipping.

The term Caveat Emptor would seem to be tailor made for transacting with a junk yard over eBay, but Schram’s completely exploded that mental model.  It’s too bad that I am surprised by a company acting with integrity, but the complete absence of friction in resolving this issue was a real stunner.

PS…

The motor fired right up and seems to run as good as it looked on the outside.

The steering and the RE 4-Link connections aren’t 100% "there."  Ran into interference between the pitman arm and the high-steer setup.  I couldn’t get it to go together, so I trailered the rolling chassis to Larry’s shop and hired them to put together the steering and Currie AntiRock solution.  After 6-8 weeks, I went back to pick it up and it was mostly finished, but the interference was still there and I ended up having to fab up the AntiRock brackets.

It’s not that Larry doesn’t walk-the-talk, but I suspect he is somewhat "interrupt driven" and literally has more business than he can handle.  Larry was going through a restructuring of a business deal with Rockcrusher (Australia) and they were in the process of building a new shop, but that was little consolation. While going after a quasi-local resource, it still felt like stuff fell through the cracks and got put off until the last minute, with the resulting loss of quality.

Next time, I’ll probably go with process over passion and stick with a more out-of-the-box (versus outside-of-the-box) solution.